"An age the world has long forgotten"
I have traveled on my own for a few days and survived! And the Alhambra in Granada is magical and Cordoba even more so, and Oxford as dignified as I imagined except for the mad scramble in the going-out-of-business Borders, which does rather fit with the town. And York is perfectly lovely and medieval with its little snickelways and such.
People are kind to a solo, young female. My tour book warned me about the bouncers at Christ Church College, fulfilling their guard duties for centuries and even with a required uniform! My tour book would be quite astonished to learn that I got a private, personal tour of the Great Hall by one of those intimidating old men, who was delighted to find a visitor who cared as much about Alice in Wonderland as Harry Potter. I got to wander around everywhere, see the hidden door behind the high table, the tiny carved teacups in one chair (a reference to a certain mad hatter), the dodo, and Alice in the window. It was pointed out to me that look as I might, I could NOT find a Cheshire Cat--and really, should it be any other way?
A kind lady at the infamous Bodleian library helped me slightly less-than-legitimately get a pass to reading rooms normally off limits, though I had to see the medieval wing with the normal tourist crowd. I got to see books in Maimonedes' hand and the oldest copy of the Chronicle of Eusebius. Another lady gave me my own tour of Oxford, and yet another of the cathedral there, including rare stained-glass grotesques.
In Malaga, the hostel not only gave me a room to myself but one with an open balcony facing the front of the medieval church, not 3 yards away. In Cordoba, I got into the mezquita for free. When it began pouring rain, not only did one young man offer me a ride on his motorcycle (declined), but a somewhat older gentleman insisted on escorting me about with his umbrella, going quite out of his way. Someone clued me in to a way of reaching Madinat Al-Zahra, the Shining City, an archaeological excavation that I'd been dying to see.
And in Granada, my hostel was literally right next to the Alhambra, illuminated throughout the night. The Nasrid Palaces and Generalife look otherworldly--but not the elves or fairies we know! They are delicate, alien, and completely enchanting, full of gardens and fountains, graceful arches, white stone carved almost like lace, and a pervading sense of openness and fresh air, a paradise on Earth. I also strongly approve of the Moorish approach to fountains, simple and flowing with no overly ornate decoration. Channels run everywhere, since they took the sensible approach that people can darn well step over an 8 inch wide stream.
Or, at least, most people can manage not to get their shoes wet. Stop laughing.
But I got back to Edinburgh eventually, packed, and set out this morning. I had an early train to Heathrow just in case, but BA said my flight to Heathrow was good. Went to the airport. Waited. At precisely the moment of check-in, they announced that it was canceled, as were all other flights that would get me there in time for the Chicago flight.
I tore a bit of hair out and grabbed the next train for London. My flight takes off at 3:25, gate closing at 3:05. My train gets in at 2:10. It's anywhere from 40min to an hour to get to Heathrow from King's Cross with a taxi.
Maaaaybe this will work. Maybe, even if it doesn't, I can raise hell enough to get home tonight. Worst case scenario, I go tomorrow. And given that I turned in my dorm key in Edinburgh anyway, it's not like I'll have to pay extra for housing in London that I wouldn't otherwise, and this cuts out one of the variables for tomorrow.
Meanwhile, I schelp along two darn heavy bags with heavy whisky for my -father and grandfather and a heavy sword for Aaron. Yes, a sword. It's taped to the duffel bag. In retrospect, yes, a bad idea, now that I haven't been able to just check the bags.
Isn't life fun?
But hey, the train went along the coast and I saw Lindisfarne, the Holy Isle, and saw Durham and Berwick-upon-Tweed and the whole coastline in the snow. It's beautiful. And I have internet. So train service for the win, and the sooner British Airways goes out of business, the better (once I get home!).